Central Dairy, A Mid-Missouri Tradition
On January 20, 2005, the Central Dairy Building in Downtown Columbia was placed on the National Register of Historic Places because of its outstanding architecture and its historic use as a commercial dairy. Central Dairy was founded in Columbia in 1920 by Dot Sappington and Clyde Shepard, both Boone Countians. After operating for seven years at two other locations downtown they built the Central Dairy Building in 1927 to house the growing dairy operation. The exceptional terra cotta ornamentation is very rare for Mid-Missouri and is likely the finest example in Downtown Columbia. The building was designed by prolific Kansas City architects Shepard and Wiser. The ground floor was used for the sale of ice cream and other dairy products, with manufacturing and loading docks in the back. The second floor was offices.
In 1932 Roy Sappington (Dot Sappington’s son) bought out his father’s share with the help of a friend and took over the business, becoming equal partners with Clyde Shepard. Business proved profitable and in 1940 an expansion to the east was undertaken. This time Columbia architect Harry Satterlee Bill was chosen. Bill was head of a booming architecture practice at the time and designed many Columbia homes and commercial buildings that still stand in 2023. His most prominent work is the Columbia Municipal Building, built in 1932, which served as City Hall for many years and holds the municipal court in 2023. Bill’s 1940 expansion to the Central Dairy Building was remarkable in that it is nearly indistinguishable from the original 1927 structure, using the same terra cotta ornamentation. A large brick warehouse was also built near the back of the property in the 1940s
Central Dairy continued to grow and in 1943 was called “the institution that is a household word and a household service at Columbia.” Roy Sappington was elected Mayor of Columbia in 1949 and had an office on the second floor of the building. The second floor was often rented out as offices for other business, including a photography studio. The Central Dairy Building was in continual use and a popular gathering place until 1959, when the business was sold. In 1961, Downtown Appliance moved in and is still located there today. For 25 years it was the location of the popular downtown arcade, Gunther’s Games, founded in 1980. In 2005, the very first Pickleman’s Cafe opened in the building, it is still there but Pickleman’s has expanded to twenty-five stores in six states. The building is still highly intact in 2023 and looks much as it did in 1940. A architectural survey called it “one of the most beautiful buildings” in Downtown Columbia.
Dot Sappington, the original President of Central Dairy, began in the diary business in 1905. He had family in Arrow Rock, Missouri and was related to the famous pioneer doctor John Sappington. Clyde Shepard, the other founding partner of Central Dairy, also had family in Arrow Rock. Clyde was known for having brought the first herd of Holstein cattle to Columbia by driving them over a frozen Missouri River from Arrow Rock. Holsteins are now the most widespread cattle breed in the world and known for their high production. Clyde Shepard father, Austin Shepard, was from Arrow Rock. Austin Shepard moved to Boone County and by 1930 owned over 500 acres of land, focusing on dairy farming. It is very likely he supplied Central Dairy.
After Dot Sappington sold Central Dairy to his son in 1932 he moved to Jefferson City and opened a new Central Dairy. Although they used the same logo and were very similar, they were technically separate companies. The ice cream counter opened in 1934 and in 2023 it is still a popular tourist destination, especially with students on field trips to the Missouri State Capitol. At some point a Fulton branch of Central Dairy was also opened. For many years the Jefferson City Central Dairy manufactured a wide variety of products milk, ice cream, cottage cheese, sour cream and its famous Chip ‘n’ Dip. They delivered across Mid-Missouri, including Columbia. In 2007 Central Dairy was acquired by Illinois based Prairie Farms Dairy, a multibillion dollar company. They still operate the storefront in Jefferson City, but ceased home delivery and stopped producing the beloved Chip ‘n’ Dip, to much lamentation.
Inspired by the preservation of historic dairy buildings, our group, CoMo Preservation, hopes to help homeowners, landlords, and institutions prevent the destruction of historic architecture. Original period styles might be replicated, but will forever lack the social history of authentic structures. The preservation of historic buildings is necessary for Columbia’s residents, students, and visitors to achieve a sense of place and, it follows, for our city’s continued economic success. If you want to join us in our mission sign up for our mailing list to receive news and updates.
Sources
Sheals, Debbie (August 2004). National Register of Historic Places Registration Form: Central Dairy Building. Columbia, Missouri: United States Department of the Interior. Accessed January 20, 2023.
Morell, Casey (April 18, 2013). Vintage arcade reopens in Columbia under new owner. Columbia, Missouri: KBIA. Accessed January 20, 2023.
Riske, Heather (June 24, 2016). How Central Dairy Became a Must-Visit Destination in Jefferson City. St. Louis, Missouri: Feast Magazine. Accessed January 20, 2023.
Bonderer, Annie (May 13, 2021). Central Dairy ice cream parlor serves 40 flavors in Jefferson City. Columbia, Missouri: Columbia Missourian. Accessed January 20, 2023.
Central Dairy. Central Dairy History. www.centraldairy.biz. Accessed January 20, 2023.
City of Columbia. Council History. www.como.gov. Accessed January 20, 2023.
Pickleman’s Gourmet Cafe. Locations. www.pickemans.com. Accessed January 20, 2023.
Wikipedia contributors. (2022, December 31). Holstein Friesian cattle. In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 06:17, January 20, 2023.
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